
Pioneer Square is where Seattle started — after the 1889 fire the city rebuilt in brick and simply raised the streets one level, leaving the original sidewalks below. Bill Speidel's Underground Tour walks those buried storefronts; above ground, Romanesque blocks frame Occidental Park's brick plaza and the 1914 Smith Tower's observatory rides a manual elevator to a Prohibition-era bar at the top.
The district and park are free; the Underground Tour is ~$22 and Smith Tower ~$20.
Daytime is fine on the main blocks — stick to Occidental/1st Ave; it's grittier than downtown at night.
1st Ave S at Yesler — the square's edge.
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